Day 57 July 9 Thursday

Well that concludes our 2009 trek. We arrived home about 12:30 PM with heavy rain and traffic 90% of the last day of the trip. Some numbers:

• Total miles: 5,431
• Total $ on gas: $1,528.78
• Total gallons of gas: 615.9
• Average cost/gallon: $2.48/gallon
• Average miles/gallon: 8.8

Other info (off the top of my head):

• We traveled through Florida panhandle, Louisiana, Arkansas, Missouri, eastern half of Kansas, eastern half of Nebraska, Iowa, just a touch of Kentucky, Tennessee, Alabama and straight down the middle of Florida to home again.
• Visited presidential homes/libraries of Clinton, Truman, Eisenhower, Hoover, Lincoln and Polk (although closed). Also visited the birthplace of McArthur and I might as well throw in the home of Jefferson Davis, president of the Confederacy.
• Best breakfast: Stanley's in New Orleans
• Best lunch: Des Moines Art Center
• Best dinner: Lester's at Shorty's Casino in LA
• Best camp: Oak Lake in Arkansas
• Most interesting site: Poverty Point Mounds in Louisiana
• Best evening: Being declared the euchre savant playing cards with the Apels and Hahlens.
• Best thing I brought home: creation of potter Hahlen
• My favorite museum was Fort Smith in Arkansas, although there were others. Jack liked the Prairie Museum in Holdredge NB. The Clinton Library was wonderful. We learned about terrible public policies along the Trail of Tears, Central High in Little Rock, the Civil Rights Monument in Montgomery AL. We also learned that despite it all, it's a pretty great country with wonderful people who are helpful and working hard.
• Biggest concern: empty shops and rv parks, closed gas stations and other businesses, very little traffic.

I would definitely go back to many of the places in Arkansas and spend a lot more time in Alabama. For right now it is kind of nice to be all unpacked and chilling out in front of a big TV.

Day 56 July 8 Wednesday

Well we made it across the FL border and staying at the Stephen Foster Cultural Center State Park. It is very near the intersection of I 10 and I 75. We probably could have made it the 170 miles remaining but storms threatening and we were up very early to get this far. Some pictures of our campsite. It is an award winning state park but don't know who is the awarder and the criteria. We are able to hear the carillon near the museum on the quarter hour. Concert coming up at 4PM. We have been here before and I am sure Suwanee River will be heard.

Day 55 July 7 Tuesday

Quiet day at the old rv park. Pouring down rain all afternoon. I had some of the Chilton County Alabama peaches I bought yesterday. There was a huge billboard with the County Commissioner and the 5 peach queens from Mrs. Peach, I guess, down to a preschooler. So when we saw a roadside stand I had to get some. They are yummy. Smallest peaches I have ever seen. The lady who ran the stand wanted to know about the rv so I gave her the tour. She said it was just what she needed. Who knows, we may have a buyer :)

Day 54 July 6 Monday

Another very stormy day and lots of traffic on the way to Montgomery. We made only one stop - the Civil Rights Memorial Center which is part of the Southern Poverty Law Center. The memorial was designed by Maya Lin the same person who did the Viet Nam memorial in DC. Beautiful. See pictures. The little museum is quite moving and there are exhibits honoring the 40 people whose names are on the memorial although they know there are many many more who died in the cause of civil rights that remain unknown. The last exhibit is a Wall of Tolerance where each visitor asked to "sign" a pledge that they will commit to justice, equality, and human rights. Your name then is added to this huge wall of names that evolve with each name in a different color. It is really something as the names scroll from floor to ceililng. The Southern Poverty Law Center is a very imposing building across the street. There is lots of security. The guard told Jack that they frequently get bomb threats.

When we got back to the rv, a guy came up to us to ask where we were from because he saw the plates. He is from Plant City. He is an electrician who is working on the new prison across the street. I think it may be a federal jail if there is such a thing. I don't know because we got all turned around with the one way streets but I think it was the back of the Federal Courthouse. As we were walking along, I told Jack it looked like a jail or some kind of archives because there are no windows. He said the wrought iron fences looked like they were to keep people out not in. Anyway, I told the guy the museum was great and he said he was surprised at how much history there was in Montgomery and he was hoping to get around on his next trip to finish the work. Jack strongly hinted that our retractable step that won't retract just needs a whack of a hammer, but he didn't bite. I said he's an electrician, not a carpenter.

When we came into town there was a big traffic jam at a major intersection just before you get to the capitol. Could not figure out what was going on. It was people waiting for people to pull out of the parking places so they could pull in and pay their electric bills. As we were leaving town, we were at the same corner and it was the same thing. You wouldn't believe the confusion. Seemed strange to me that people go through all that. I guess because I pay all of our bills online.

Although still raining we made our way to Tuskegee to see museums of Booker T Washington and George Washington Carver. The parking lot for the home of BT Washington was full. We parked in the bus lot and walked up quite a few steps and a block or so to the front door. Guess what? Sign on the door saying that it's closed. Aggravating. Turns out there is a huge sign in the front lawn that you can't see from the highway saying they are renovating and it is closed for our safety. Still don't know who was parked in the lot that said visitors only. Walked across the street to the campus. It is very, very nice. Reminded me of Howard University but smaller. All of the bricks of all the buildings and the home were made by the students in the 1880s. This part of the campus is a national historic site. There was not a soul in sight which also doesn't explain all the cars in the lot. I think I'm going crazy?!?! See picture.

Because it was raining and foggy we didn't even try to find George Washington Carver museum or Tuskegee Airman Monument. Sad to say that the town of Tuskegee is pitiful. Shabby and so many closed stores etc. Stopped in gas station for directions. The clerk was clueless, but a very nice black guy walked me outside to show me the direction to go. He didn't recognize the road numbers but knew what I meant when I said we were headed to Union Springs. A sign on the door of the gas station said that everyone had to remove their "hoodies" before entering. Probably not a good sign. An old man came in for gas while I was there and only had $2. Not even enough for a gallon.

From Tuskegee we headed to Eufaula AL and Lakepoint State Park. It is beautiful. We are staying another day to kind of recuperate from the rain and traffic and gear up for the push to Tampa. Along the way we discovered that Union Springs is a center for hunting with a monument to a hunting dog. Large plantations/resorts for hunters as we traveled along a good highway, although we were the only ones on it, through these small deserted towns. We stopped at the Dollar General in Union Springs for pork and beans. I was the only white person in the store except for one clerk. The store was very, very busy. As the commercial at Grand Ole Opry said, Dollar General isn't cheap, it's thrifty.

Jack, who loves to be by the water, is out in the rain with a poncho. It is a great view. The park is, sadly as usual, empty. I would say there are about 10 rvs in this section of the park that would hold at least 60. I would definitely come back to do all the things we missed in AL and other things in west AL that weren't on our way this time.

Day 53 July 5 Sunday

What a disappointment today. Long story short is that we got to the Hermitage. RV parking was down a hill and far away. Handicapped parking in the car lot was impossible because of the way the parking was arranged. There was no one there so Jack just pulled around and parked across 2 1/2 spaces of regular parking. We paid the $14/person senior rate for tickets. While Jack went to bathroom I decided to go back for umbrella because we were told it was 300 yards to walk to the Hermitage from the visitor center plus more for the other things to see.

As I was returning the security guard stopped me and said I had to move the rv to the rv parking lot. I explained that I could not drive the rv in such tight places and it would be really hard for my husband who walks with canes to come all the way back out and then walk from the rv lot back to the visitor center. I said we have a handicap permit but the spaces are too small but we would be willing to move there since they are closest to the door. He rejected the handicapped parking because the rv was too long. I said I thought it was an unreasonable request since at that point there were maybe at the most 12 cars in this huge lot.

I went and got Jack and by that time the security supervisor became involved. He said that these were the rules of the executive board and had to be followed. Jack said he was sure the executive board expected him to use common sense. Because they were standing with legs spread and thumbs in their belts, we just got our money back. They could have let it go or offered to pick Jack up in their golf cart in the rv parking lot. Or give us a time limit because they were expecting big crowds, etc. None of that happened because it wasn't the rule.

The point is on this trip we have gone to presidential homes of Clinton, Eisenhower, Truman, Hoover, Lincoln. I think we violated the parking rules one way or another at all of them without a word from anyone. Essentially we try to do what is most convenient -that is what will be least tiring. When they see the handicap sticker that tend to be a little more gracious perhaps because we don't have unreasonable requests. We scope things out and see what is best without disturbing others.

Anyway, we did not go back to the rv park for the second night. I called and they were very upset with the way we were treated although it had nothing to do with them and refunded the second night's fee. Very, very nice of them. I of course I have been composing my letter to the Exec Comm of the Ladies Society for the Hermitage, National Foundation for Historic Preservation, Nashville Tourism, and the State of Tennessee. They just spent $2.5 million upgrading the home, etc.

We left town headed for Birmingham. Saw a sign at Columbia TN exit for James K Polk presidential home so stopped there. Closed of course until one and it was only 11. Seems like nice little town. Never saw anything about Polk this advertised in any of our tour books. The home looks great and I know nothing about Polk so it would have been interesting. Everything in town is Polk this and that. They need a PR person. See pictures. Looked like it was privately owned home too.

That's the other thing about the Hermitage. We were there at 9 AM so even if there was an anticipated crowd, we would have been long gone before they got there. We would have even moved if they needed the spaces while we were there. There was just no good reason to go through all that commotion in an empty parking lot.

Made it to the south side of Birmingham AL. Turns out what we wanted to see in Birmingham is closed on Monday so just kept on going. Very cloudy, threatening day and traffic picked up a little as we approached Birmingham. Great park, also empty. Lots of thunder and some rain. Onward to Montgomery tomorrow. Getting close to home and a little eager.

Day 52 July 4 Saturday

Made it to Nashville. Seemed to be very slow going along the way. Several miles of the interstate were one lane. Had late breakfast in Paducah KY.

They had shuttle to Grand Ole Opry from the rv park so decided to do that. It was one of those, been there, done that kind of things. Got to give them credit for being on the radio live since 1925. Auditorium is set up like the old Ryman with pews. Not very comfortable. I don't know, it smelled funny to me. Either the baby next to Jack or the old guy next to me or the cushions on the seats. You get the picture. People drinking, talking out loud, getting up and down. No one seemed to mind though. Another whole subculture I know nothing about.

Some good music and lots of tribute to soldiers and vets. Would think it was Memorial Day rather than 4th of July. Highlight was the Browns who were reunited to receive recognition for 50th anniversary of their song The 3 Bells. I know you know it -- " I hear the chapel bells ringing. . .. " then later on "lead us not into temptation, da da da da, salvation and eternal love" They also sang Scarlet Ribbons and The Old Lamplighter which are also their hits. All of which we recognized.

The other picture is of Mike Snyder. His song was the best. The fiddles were great in the number they did. He also told some great jokes. One was: two Jehovah's Witnesses came to the door and he invited them in and asked them to sit down. He asked them what they wanted. They said they didn't know because they never got that far before. TeeHee.

Terrible storm and the rv park was pretty full of deep puddles when we got back. Glad we decided to use the shuttle. Hoping for better weather tomorrow. They also had a dinner and live music here at the park but we missed it to go to Grand Ole Opry. The picture is of the warm-up guy.

Day 51 July 3 Friday

We went to the Lincoln Home Historic Site run by the National Parks this AM. It is wonderful. They are restoring the 4 square blocks around Lincoln's home in Springfield where he lived for 25 years. They are off to a good start. It is so well done and the movie in the Visitor Center is much better than that in the museum yesterday. I took the tour of the home. Too many steep steps for Jack and there are 20 people in a group. Attached is picture of the home and the desk in the bedroom that actually was Lincoln's as is all of the black leather furniture in the house. Lots of the other stuff in the house is "of the period"and very nicely done. The wallpaper in the bedroom is an accurate reproduction. It is very "yikes" when you walk into the room. There were some craftsmen working in one of the empty lots and I bought a shepard's hook for the yard. See picture.

We then left Springfield and made our way south to Marion IL. It is about 10 miles from here to I-24 which is then a straight 3-hour shot to Nashville tomorrow. Quite a bit of local traffic today so we stopped early to get out of everyone's way.

Day 50 July 2 Thurs

We got a little bit of a late start because we were hoping to get the other tires but they were unable to do it. We did decide to take what looked like a short cut to Springfield, IL. Turned out it was shorter and also a smoother road than the interstate.

We made a brief stop at the Lincoln New Salem Museum which just happened to be on the shortcut road. It is reconstructed to look like the New Salem IL when Lincoln lived there in his early 20s (the 1820s). It is where he first got into politics, taught himself law, met Anne Rutledge, etc. I just went into the visitor's center to check it out. We weren't in the mood for lots of outdoor walking with costumed people explaining things. See picture of the rail splitter statue at the end of the pictures. Sorry it's in the wrong order.

On to Springfield. The Lincoln Museum and Library is all new. This weekend is the official celebration of the 200th anniversary of Lincoln's birth. The new place is celebration of this bicentennial. What can I say. It was way to Disneyesque for me and not enought oomph. For instance, there is this huge room that recreates the death bed of Willy in the White House with background music heard through the door that is ajar as Lincoln (a model of him of course) comes in the room. It's huge with this tiny little tablet explaining that both sons were ill but it was the first ball that they were hosting in the renovated White House so they kept coming up from the ball to check on the boys. He died that night. The whole thing seems like the target audience is kids.

The thing I liked best was the 4 minute Civil War. It was a map with a time line of the Civil War across the bottom. The battle lines changed on the map and a small box showed the tally of Union and Confederate causalties on each side as an arrow moved across the time line. The North had higher numbers consistently and ended up with 80,000 more total casualties. Do you know how many soldiers died in the Civil War? 1.3 million. Jack thinks it was injured and dead and now that I think of it, it wasn't clear on this map. Any way, it makes me wonder if Lincoln was all that great of a president with that horrible statistic to his credit. Over a million soldiers for cryng out loud. I never knew that. He was not popular at all during his time and I also wonder what history might say if he hadn't been assassinated.

Any way, there is a big theatre (beyond the myth but it really wasn't) and a hologram theatre which they are set up exactly like Disney. Although there was no sign and no one told me on the way in, one of the attendants told me photos were not allowed except if I was standing on the marble in the main hall. Said sorry, I didn't know. She told me I should have read my ticket. Whatever. But then when I got to the next room the security guard came rushing over to me to tell me no cameras. I didn't even have the camera out. She must have told on me or I was caught on camera. See pictures I did take on the marble floor.

There was an Illinois exhibit which reinforced Abe's role in the Homestead Act which we already knew and his role in development of the Department of Agriculture which was interesting. Otherwise there was not really much new info about Lincoln that we didn't know. Saw his stovepipe hat but I think I saw another one in the Smithsonian. Stayed to closing and we found an rv park just a few miles south of Springfield. Thinking of driving back tomorrow to go to the Lincoln home which is a National Park. That may strike us more positively. I don't know who controls the Library and Museum. Illinois? The Library stuff must belong to the US government but I don't know. I bought a book on presidential libraries. I guess I better get that sucker out.

Day 49 July 1 Wed

We made it to the world's largest truck stop in Wolcott IA called Iowa 80. It was not worth the detour but it is kind of interesting. We did see truck with a vane for a wind turbine. Go prarie power! Another truck was filled with turkeys. Heard a gobble as I walked by, turned and couldn't believe it. There is parking for 800 trucks.

The rest of the day was not so good. Had a tire blow out just past the Quad Cities (Moline and Rock Island IL and Bettendorf and Davenport IA) Wonderful guy came out when we called Geico BUT had to take the wheel off, go with him to buy a tire, drive back for him to mount it. Only to discover that there was no air in tire and the battery went dead because we wanted to leave the flashers on. So back to the tire store for air and finally to rv park in Rock Island about 6 or so. Ugh. Oh well, tomorrow is another day.

Day 48 June 30 Tues

Busy day in Dubuque. Visited Ron Hahlen's kiln and Mississippi Mud studio where he works and the shop where his pottery is sold. See pictures. Also rode on the 4th Elevator and visited the new riverwalk in Dubuque. Really all great stuff. Dubuque continues to grow and change. Lots of nice development. Kind of chilly actually. We are going out to dinner and then little birthday party for Chris.

Day 47 June 29 Monday

Some shopping today and then another great meal that Rob and Chris made. Picture of sunset over Dubuque. Nice to be taking it easy.

Day 46 June 28 Sunday

Quiet day and then dinner with the Hahlen's, etc. Very, very nice. Saw some fireworks on the way home. Pictures of Apel's house in East Dubuque and their view of Dubuque across the Mississippi.

Day 45 June 27 Saturday

We have arrived in Dubuque and already spent a great evening with Jack's cousins. Sitting outside with great view of Mississippi and Dubuque. Started out today in the Amana Colonies. Always wondered about it. Very interesting as a commune that lasted over 80 years. See picture. A few shops with a variety of things and I liked the museum.

We then headed to the Herbert Hoover Museum and Library. Nicely done and apparently recently redone. Learned a lot of things I didn't know before about him and the times he lived in. Continues to be very hot and some threat of rain. Picture is Hoover as a younger man.

Day 44 26 Friday

Off to a good start today. I took some pictures of the capitol in Des Moines (simply beautiful - see dome and outside is gold leaf) and then on to a great art museum. It is comprisedof 3 buildings that were added over the years. One by I M Pei in 1968. Didn't know he was working back then. Think of him as younger. Picture is of his building and the glass along the right is the cafe. Anyway, all modern art. Rothko is still my favorite. Special exhibit of Japanese art that is from their permanent collection and how it influenced modern Japanese comics and graphics. No pictures allowed. Some things I really liked. We couldn't believe the security. The other special exhibit was Tara Donovan's whose art is made of ordinary things like straws, buttons, stryofoam cups. Unbelievable. I will share the booklet on the exhibit when I get back.

Had lunch in their cafe. Soup was potato blue cheese to die for and right behind was white bean with chicken and artichoke. Yummy. But then came dessert. Chocolate cheesecake topped with coconut cheese cake and chocolate pecan pie which was like pecan pie but chocolate instead of brown sugar. Oh my God!

The art museum is in a very nice section of Des Moines with lots of big apartment buildings etc. Again kind of like Bethesda MD. We drove through downtown where there was an art show. Absolutely no people on the streets.

Made an important little detour. See pictures. Surprise, surprise. There was a police officer waiting for speeders and I asked him how they pronounced the name of the town and it is pronounced as my sister pronounces her name. What fun. Wikipedia says 61 people live there. I know the railroad is now biking/hiking trail that I saw. The romance of it, I don't know. The sign was just this side of the road behind the police car. So the picture is the town The rest of the people must live on side roads.

Speaking of which, I just don't understand how people live in such isolated places. I guess you just assume that a bad accident or a heart attack and you're dead. Can't even imagine what it is like in winter. Needless to say, there is lots of corn, lots and lots of corn. Got planted late according to the paper because there was so much rain.

Kept on to the Meskwaki RV Park which is at the largest casino in Iowa. Nice rvspace. Hardly any people. Had dinner in their steakhouse. No comparison to the Lester's at the casino in LA. Very disappointing service and food. We ordered drinks that came from the bar which was a long-g-g-g way from the restaurant. Restaurant also empty of course. Played slots for a little while. Penny slots were packed. I don't get it. Win a few cents and it is such a complicated game. Bingo hall was booming. Bet there are 1500 slots here. Jack was going to play blackjack but no seats. Nice hotel. We are near Council Bluffs and Iowa City.

Day 43 June 25 Thursday

First, we went to the play last night. Kind of cute. Kids threw popcorn at the villian, a sing-a-long at intermission, etc. The place was packed with people from the lodge and campers. See picture.

Headed towards Omaha and saw this church up on the hill from the interstate. So we went up to see it but not opened until 10. I climbed over the gate and took some pictures anyway. Jack said that's trespassing. Too bad. Not as nice as the one in Eureka Springs. Not the same mood and the lines not quite as good. They have a stone path with a little stream in the middle leading to it and it is surrounded by wildflowers, etc so it's very natural just like the other one in the woods. I guess the woods were just prettier than the grassy plains are. Also this one is Catholic rather than a non denominational house of prayer.

Then went to Boys Town. I can't believe how nice the campus is. It is now Girls and Boys Town and they live in homes with a couple who have their own apartment in the home. They act as surrogate parents and the 6 or so kids can be from preschoolers to teenagers so it's creating as much of a family as they can. The dorms are gone. Some children/adolescents sent there by the courts, others orphans, and others there recovering from abuse, etc. The museum is just great. Understand why it was Boys Town and not Boys Home. Statue of 2 brothers became the symbol. The original statue showed the boy being carried with braces. See photo. One of the actual brothers it was based on wore braces and all of the boys helped carry him around because it was so hard for him to walk.

You have to give it to Father Flanagan for having the idea and the ability to market and raise funds to make it as big as it was and continues to be. Also credit his successors for changing with the times as more was known about problem kids and how to deal with them etc. Their programs and approaches changed to deal with new adolescent and social problems. Heavy into parenting skills for example and they have a national 24/7 hotline for parents to call. Education still important but listening to the interviews of alumni, it seems that life skills is what they got out of it - how to get along with others, anger management, etc. as well as vocational skills. There is still a heavy religious influence of course. We ate in the cafe with all of the people who work there. Each one wears a pin with the 2 brothers emblem on it.

The first branch of Boy's Town was - guess where? No, Tallahassee and there are two others in FL. Some branches focus more on counseling, parenting programs etc. but all of them have a residential component. The emphasis is different from place to place and they are all over the country but not that many of them.

Drove through downtown Omaha. Seems like medicine and universities are the big businesses. Seems nice enough. At least through the sections we were in. Wanted to see the Golden Spike Monument in Council Bluffs IA since I was at actual place in Utah. This is where the Union Pacific began. Council Bluffs is right across the river from Omaha. It wasn't worth it. And that section of Council Bluffs was kind of icky.

Onward to Des Moines and in a nice rv park. Pricey and just did laundry. Saw lots and lots of windmills along the way.

Day 42 June 24 Wed

First of all, I forgot to report that the actor Robert Taylor was from Beatrice. Road out of town was named for him. Dinner last night was only so so. Poor service but great view. See pictures.

Went next door to the Strategic Air and Space Museum. Lots of fighter and bomber planes. Not my thing but Jack in his glory. Thank goodness they had electric scooter. It covers 2 huge hangers so lots of walking -- or scootering.

Their special exhibit was portrait photos of Holocaust survivors in Omaha. Most of them came here in 1950. Not sure why. It was about how they look today but gave a brief background of where they were prisoners, etc. Then watched a movie with interviews of survivors and the soldiers who liberated them. Very moving. They had it tough as displaced persons as well. I didn't know that Japan had given refuge to Lithuanian Jews, thousands of them. They spent time in the Japan before coming to US. A few summer school groups but otherwise the museum was not very busy. There is a "melodrama" at the theatre here in the park tonight so we will do that. Will move on to Iowa tomorrow.

Day 41 June 23 Tues

Well it was worth the detour to Beatrice, NB yesterday. It's Bee-at-res by the way. Although we were at the garage getting tires rotated and balanced until about noon, we were at least in an air conditioned room watching tv.

Then the good stuff. The Homestead National Monument of America. It's a relatively new park. Great video that was very sympathetic to the Indians who were displaced when the Homestead Act was created in 1853. The first person, Freeman, picked this spot right after midnight on Jan 1 when the law was enacted and then hurried back to his unit in the Union army so that his family could begin to build a house etc. The last homesteader under the act was a a VietNam vet who staked out a claim in Alaska in 1974. The act was repealed shortly after. I didn't realize so many states were included in the Homestead Act including FL. See map showing the area of FL that was homesteaded. In all, the government gave away 270 million acres in 30 states. Of course the Indians say it was not theirs to give. Great museum. Life was very hard. The tall grass had roots that were 15 ft long, so just imagine trying to cultivate that land - and digging for water.

The Homestead Act is considered one of the most important pieces of legislation in the development of the country. I guess I have to agree. 93 million people are descendents of homesteaders - from freed slaves, northern European immigrants, and easterners wanting a fresh start. Also, many women took advantage of the opportunity - widowers and single women who started the schools, newspapers, etc. Would like to read more about that.

They also had a viewing window so you could see into their storage vault. It explained all of the climate/light control things they do and damage that is caused if things are not preserved. I think in another life I could have gotten into this history museum/preservation stuff.

As my mother always said about traveling, it would be nice to know what crops we are passing. I suggested to the park ranger that the National Park Service should put together some kind of reference so people like me knew that they were looking at sorghum or alfalfa, etc. She got so excited and went right to the computer. May be she sent the idea on.

Left Beatrice taking the back way to Omaha. We are in a great state park right next to the Strategic Air Command Museum we will see tomorrow. That may be it because it is so hot. Want to see Boys Town though. It will be on to Iowa on Thursday or so. Still playing it by ear. There is a big lodge in the park. Going there for dinner tonight.